Niacinamide is a popular ingredient in skincare. It is advertised for many different skin concerns and used in a variety of products. But how does it work to help the skin? Is it as great as it seems to be? Read more to find out!
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is one of two major forms of vitamin B3, also known as niacin. Niacin, and therefore niacinamide, is thought to be crucial for the body as it is a precursor for two important cofactors, or chemicals that aid in biological chemical reactions. These two cofactors, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP) are used by cells to repair damage and ensure they function normally. This is theorized to be the reason why niacinamide is a great ingredient to use on the skin.
What can niacinamide actually do for the skin?
Repair UV Damage
UV rays are known to be harmful to the skin. Unprotected exposure to UV rays directly damages cells’ DNA, which can cause mutations that lead to skin cancer. When treated with niacinamide, keratinocytes, a type of skin cell, can increase the rate at which they repair their DNA.
Prevent Skin Cancer in High-Risk Individuals
Niacinamide can aid individuals at high risk of skin cancer. It can reduce the risk of developing actinic keratosis, which is considered precancerous. A study in 2015 in the New England Health Journal reported that the new rate of non-melanoma skin cancers was lower by 23% in high-risk individuals who received niacinamide compared to those who did not in a year-long assessment.
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin deposits on the skin, causing patches of skin that are darker than the skin around it. Niacinamide aids in reducing hyperpigmentation through inhibiting melanosome transfer, a process that gives the skin its pigment through melanin. It can be used to even out, or even lighten skin tone.
Improve Skin Barrier
Ceramides are lipids that make up the outermost layer of skin and are important for regulating the skin barrier. Niacinamide can increase the production of ceramides and improve the permeability of the skin. By keeping the skin barrier healthy and strong, the skin can stay properly hydrated, as there will be less epidermal water loss.
Reduce Sebum Production
Sebum is an oily, waxy substance produced on the body to keep the skin moisturized and protected. Excess sebum, however, can be an issue as it can lead to acne if it clogs skin follicles. In some individuals, the use of niacinamide can reduce the amount of sebum produced. Alongside reducing sebum production, niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that can also aid in reducing acne.
Niacinamide is a great skincare ingredient that can work for any skin type or any skin issue. Keep in mind that niacinamide might not be for everyone, but there are many other options out there that will suit everyone's needs!
Thanks for reading!
Written by Kaylee Barrera
Sources:
Chen, Andrew. “A Phase 3 Randomized Trial of Nicotinamide for Skin-Cancer Chemoprevention.” PubMed, 22 Oct. 2015, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26488693.
Draelos, Zoe Diana. “The Effect of 2% Niacinamide on Facial Sebum Production.” PubMed, 2006, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16766489.
Hakozaki, T. “The Effect of Niacinamide on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation and Suppression of Melanosome Transfer.” PubMed, 2002, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180.
Newton, A. “Here’s What Niacinamide Can—and Can’t—Do for Your Skin.” SELF, 25 Feb. 2020, www.self.com/story/what-niacinamide-can-do-for-your-skin.
Ranaweera, Anoma. “Nicotinamide | DermNet NZ.” DermNet NZ, 2012, dermnetnz.org/topics/nicotinamide.
Snaidr, Victoria. “Nicotinamide for Photoprotection and Skin Cancer Chemoprevention: A Review of Efficacy and Safety.” Wiley Online Library, 2019, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/exd.13819.
Tanno, O. “Nicotinamide Increases Biosynthesis of Ceramides as Well as Other Stratum Corneum Lipids to Improve the Epidermal Permeability Barrier.” PubMed, 2000, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324.
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