AHAs and BHAs have become popular ingredients in skincare as chemical exfoliants, but what is the difference? Read more to find out the benefits of each and learn which is best for your skin!
AHAs
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are organic acids commonly found in food or milk sugars. Common AHAs found in skincare include glycolic acid, citric acid, or lactic acid.
AHAs can be used as chemical exfoliants since they can induce the peeling of the skin from the outer layers of skin to regenerate new healthy skin cells. As an acid, AHAs reduce the pH of the skin, inhibit certain proteins, and interfere with ionic bonds inside the skin, which can lead to the shedding of skin from the inside out.
By increasing the production of glycosaminoglycans, a type of sugar that is fundamental for skin tissue, and thickening the skin barrier, AHAs can improve wrinkled skin. Thicker skin means it can keep irritants like bacteria out while keeping in moisture. Thin skin usually occurs due to aging or sun damage, so thickening the barrier with AHAs can keep the skin younger and healthier.
Some AHAs can increase the level of collagen or its precursor, which in turn will benefit the skin, as collagen is a fundamental component of healthy skin. Collagen can strengthen the skin and can keep it hydrated or elastic. By increasing the collagen present in the skin, AHAs can also aid in restoring skin damaged by UV radiation.
AHAs can further aid in preventing UV-induced damage in other ways, including:
Preventing the loss of healthy skin cells. Some UV radiation can directly affect cells by inducing apoptosis or cell death but can be prevented by AHAs.
Lowering the level of reactive oxygens. Reactive oxygens can increase dramatically from UV radiation and can damage the cell or its components. AHAs can help prevent this damage.
Reducing DNA damage caused by high-energy radiation.
Some AHAs can induce cell apoptosis. While this sounds harmful, it isn’t! It would mean that the skin renewal rate increases, promoting healthy and young skin.
BHAs
BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, are organic acids similar in composition to AHAs used in skincare. The most common found in products is salicylic acid.
BHAs are also used in chemical peels or exfoliators like AHAs. It can soften the stratum corneum, the outer layer of skin, and loosen connections between tissue within the skin. BHAs can also soften or extract proteins in the skin structure, making it easier to loosen any dry or hard skin.
Compared to AHAs, which are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble. This means BHAs can penetrate deeper into the skin, making them good ingredients to treat acne. It can break down excess sebum, blackheads, or whiteheads to clear up the skin from any clogging in the pores and decrease inflammation. If paired with an acne treatment or topical medicines, BHAs can be helpful and increase effectiveness by allowing these treatments better access to the skin.
AHA vs. BHA: Which one to use?
Deciding on whether to use AHA or BHA can depend on your skin’s needs and skin type.
As water-soluble molecules, AHAs can only work on the surface of your skin. This makes them a better choice for drier skin types, as to not dry out the inner layers. Since AHAs can also promote the thickening of the skin, they can also help dry skin stay hydrated and moisturized.
AHAs overall are great additions to your skincare, but it is important to note that AHAs should be used at lower concentrations. At high concentrations, AHAs can have the opposite effect and result in skin irritation or inflammation.
BHAs, on the other hand, are oil-soluble. This allows for BHAs to go deeper into your skin to get rid of any extra oils. Therefore, BHAs are more suitable for oilier skin types or those with acne-prone skin. Like AHAs, too high of a concentration of BHAs can be irritating to the skin but BHAs tend to be less irritating due to their anti-inflammatory properties, making them a better choice for sensitive skin types.
If you are unsure which one to use, both can be used in combination, as they provide different benefits and can aid in a multitude of problems!
Chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs are a great way to boost your skin. However, each skin type can react differently, so be sure to test products to monitor any side effects.
Thanks for reading!
Written by Kaylee Barrera
Sources:
Arif, Tasleem. “Salicylic Acid as a Peeling Agent: A Comprehensive Review.” PubMed Central (PMC), 26 Aug. 2015, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4554394.
Lekakh, Olga et al. “Treatment of Acne Vulgaris With Salicylic Acid Chemical Peel and Pulsed Dye Laser: A Split Face, Rater-Blinded, Randomized Controlled Trial.” Journal of lasers in medical sciences vol. 6,4 (2015): 167-70. doi:10.15171/jlms.2015.13
Ngan, Vanessa. “Salicylic Acid.” DermNet NZ, 2005, dermnetnz.org/topics/salicylic-acid.
Tang, Sheau-Chung, and Jen-Hung Yang. “Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin.” PubMed Central (PMC), 1 Apr. 2018, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965.
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